The Danish IQ Test, Third in a Series
-- Merry Christmas Edition!
Welcome, friends, to a very festive edition of The Danish IQ Test! As a reminder, in this series, I share the some of the habits, routines, and customs of Danish life that have stumped or surprised us.
And, of course, there’s been much to learn about how Christmas is celebrated here, as opposed to what we’ve been used to at home.
Unlike past IQ tests, we haven’t looked silly or felt embarrassed by anything here, but we’ve definitely learned a lot, and with Christmas around the corner, I thought this would be fun to share.
Christmas Trees Are Real, and They Stay Outside Until Christmas Eve
At least from what we’ve seen, most people opt for real trees, not artificial ones. I honestly don’t think I’ve even seen fake trees in stores here, so you’d probably have to leave city center to get one, or order it online. Famous for growing particularly beautiful Nordmann fir trees, Denmark is actually the largest European exporter of Christmas trees, so it makes sense that people go for the real thing.
Traditionally, though people buy them earlier, most leave their trees outside until Christmas Eve. Outside, the cut trees stay lush and green, especially since we’re never long without rain. So, beside buildings and front doors all over town, you see trees just standing, patiently waiting for the celebrations of December 24th, when they’ll be brought inside and decorated.
I, of course, am much too American for this and have brought our trees in early both years we’ve been here. It took us hours last year to find a store that sold tree stands — since most people keep the trees outside, they never need them!
Speaking of Trees, Decorations are Simple and also Flammable
Tree decor is — in keeping with Scandi aesthetics — on the minimalistic side. It mostly consists of handmade paper ornaments, like Julehjerte. I actually really love this approach. The ornaments are fun to make, take up minimal space to store, are easily replaced, and can even be recycled when they’re worn out.
I am less on board with the other major tree decoration which is, of course, real lighted candles. It looks beautiful, but I am far too chicken to try it. I do, however, love seeing trees with real candles on them. It feels delightfully Victorian, and I just want to snuggle nearby with a mug of mulled wine, a blanket, and a Wharton novel.
Christmas Eve is the Main Event, but Don’t Expect Anything to be Open for Days
As is true in most of Europe (with the exception of the UK), the big Christmas celebration in Denmark happens on Christmas Eve, rather than Christmas Day. People make and eat an elaborate dinner, dance around the tree, and open presents — the celebrations often go late into the night.
Christmas Eve is such a big deal that city buses even stop running, allowing everyone to enjoy the holiday meal with their loved ones. Literally, the whole country stops to celebrate. And I love that. There’s just such an emphasis on having personal time here, such clear boundaries between work and life.
There’s usually a simpler lunch on Christmas Day, and both the 25th and 26th are seen as days to visit family and friends you couldn’t be with on Christmas Eve, as well as keep the celebrations going. As a result, most shops are closed through the 26th. It’s best to stock up on everything you need beforehand!
There is Santa Claus. Sort Of.
While you do see Santa Claus as part of some decorations, there is no tradition here of a jolly old elf and his flying reindeer. Instead, there’s Julemanden - literally, Christmas Man - and his helpful, if a bit mischievous, elves - the nisser. Nisser are famously naughty, and they’re often cited as the inspiration for the whole Elf on the Shelf craze in the US, though it’s not used the same way here.
Danish kids don’t have to wait until Christmas morning for their gifts to magically appear; instead, Julemanden — usually a male family member dressed in red robes — delivers them on Christmas Eve.
Personally, I kind of miss the magic of Santa and Rudolph and Miracle on 34th Street, but I do love the nisser. They’re so cute and funny. People put nisse hats on their babies, and I find it all delightful. I would like a niss hat of my own.
In some ways, Christmas seems simpler here, like there’s less pressure to be super showy about everything. People don’t really go all out on outdoor decorations — no Clark Griswalds here! Instead, things seem more private — people make their homes cozy; they handcraft decorations; they bake and cook; and they spend time with loved family and friends.
Wherever you are, and however you celebrate, Merry Christmas!
It all sounds very similar to Christmas in Germany. The trees are real or plastic and I vividly remember the magic of seeing the tree for the first time on Christmas Eve. Stores are also closed starting Christmas Eve (It's usually a half day) and then through the 25th and 26th (The first and second day of Christmas). Decorations are minimal, especially outdoors - I've never gotten into the outdoor decorating here in the States even after living here for almost 30 years. Merry Christmas to you and yours!🎄